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Anti-Aging AHA's
adapted from "Self" by Lesa Sawahata
Remember the days when buying a skin cream was as easy as choosing a new lipstick shade? In the past couple of years three words, alpha-hydroxy acids have changed all that. Lately, there are so many AHA products each claiming to be better than the next, that it seems nothing short of an advanced degree in chemistry will help sort them out. Indeed, although AHA's are touted as "natural" because they can be derived from such sources as sugarcane, sour milk and fruit, most commercial AHAs are synthetically produced. (Only 2 AHAs , citric acid and lactic acid, are always derived from a natural source.) But synthetic or natural, AHAs may be the beauty panacia of the 90's. They tackle everything from fine lines and dry skin to acne and dandruff.
Unlike the skin creams of the past, AHAs which include glycolic, lactic and fruit acids, purport to subtly alter the way surface skin behaves. By dissolving the "intercellular glue" that binds dry, flaky dead cells, AHAs gently peel away the uppermost layer of skin, uncovering the smoother, more youthful-looking complexion underneath.
So why not just use a conventional exfoliator? Skin experts say that scrubbing creams and loofahs act like sledgehammers, removing cells one by one. AHAs, by contrast, melt away the "mortar between the cells, so the wall just falls apart," says Howard Murad, M.D. This "soft core" exfoliation is effective especially for acne because it removes the dead cells that clog follicles and contribute to the development of acne. There is also evidence A HAs may stimulate the growth of collagen and elastin fibers that keep skin "plump" and supple, giving it that under-30 glow.
...Look for products with antioxidants like vitamin A, C, D and E, beta-carotene and superoxide-dismutase. (Arbonne contains anti-oxidants.)
Another trend: Delivery systems that feature "spheres" or "somes." These tiny particles encapsulate and slowly time-deliver beneficial ingredients into the skin. (Arbonne Naturesomes.)
A BRIEF HISTORY OF AHAs
"AHAs are probably among the oldest skin-care products," says Wm. Werschler, M.D. Think milk baths, a beauty ritual of Marie Antoinette, and red wine, the one skin-care choice of English aristocracy. Polynesian women used raw sugarcane to soften their sun-parched skin. And who can forget Susan Sarandon's sexy lemon rub in the movie Atlantic City?
During the early 1970's, Eugene Van Scott, MD, discovered that AHAs had a profound effect on normalizing keratinization, the process by which the top layer of the epidermis is sloughed off. Not only did Dr. Van Scott find that AHAs help conditions caused by an abnormal buildup of dead cells (including acne), "they were effective on wrinkles, fine lines and skin that is termed "photo-damaged."
SENSITIVITY: A Burning Issue
The current debate focuses on how safe AHAs are when used in higher concentrations. Will too much irritate sensitive skin? Will a small amount work? Concerned that consumers would balk at products that sting, manufacturers have kept acid concentrations as low as possible. Cosmetics companies aren't required to name acid content on labels, but most over-the-counter face creams typically contain less than 10%. (anything higher must be prescribed by a doctor. The same is true for the more intense forms of AHAs, such as the up to 70% solutions used by dermatologists in chemical peels.)
Dermatologists and aestheticians agree that over-the-counter AHA products seem to have no negative side effects. They're nontoxic and won't make the skin more sensitive to the sun, as does Retin-A. A tingling sensation is, to an extent, a signal that the product is doing its job.
Glycolic acid, the smallest of the AHA molecules, may be the current industry darling, but experts disagree about its effectiveness. "Glycolic works better than the larger-moleculed lactic across the board," says Tina Alster, MD, because more penetrated the skin." "We like the larger fruit acid molecules," says Dianne Osborne (Estee Lauder). "You want AHAs to stay on the upper layer of the skin because that's where they are most effective."
"Concentration is a misleading indicator of how effective a formulation may be," says Van Scott. Effectiveness depends not only on percentage, but on the availability of active acid in a preparation. Manufacturers frequently buffer AHA products to cut down on irritation (just as aspirin is buffered to reduce "acid stomach"). So, a 10% product, buffered, will have the approximate effect of one that contains 5% or less unbuffered, but it will be non-irritating. THE REAL ISSUE IS THE EFFICACY OF THE ENTIRE FORMULATION," says Murad. Ian Scott, Ph.D., a director of research, says a product's overall effectiveness may hinge not on the type or concentration of AHAs exclusively, but on other ingredients. "You have to look at the activity of the AHA and also the base that it's in to make sure you don't negate the active ingredient. And you have to have the right pH balance."
Arbonne's AHA products meet al of the above criteria! We are PH correct and our formulation is superior to anything on the market today!!
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